Saturday, September 29, 2012

Denim Obsession

I have been meaning to write this post for quite sometime now; thinking of denim, and composing bits in my head. Having just re-read Zero History, I feel prepared to write it, perhaps thoroughly. Unfortunately, and probably not in the tone of William Gibson, which is how I hear it in my head.

Fan image ( I think) of Gabriel Hounds logo from Zero History
The content of Zero History is the entire sum of my knowledge of Japanese denim. I feel that I know the theory, though not the reality of the thing. I think that I understand a bit of the obsession which  seems to underlie so many things Japanese. The continuous search for the "perfect" pair of jeans (aka: the perfect pair for me) and not just the perfect pair, but several pairs, and readily available please; is a task in which I know that I am not alone. The perfect pair being NOT stretch (no spandex please, not even that stupid 1%,) NOT skinny (this looks good on exactly 2% of the population,) NOT distressed ( I am so sick of faux patination in lieu of quality.) Low waist. 501 Originals with the rise about 3 inches lower? Jean styles being the trend besotted things that they are, finding even a single pair that matches this description is approximately hopeless, and increasingly frustrating.

I can't help but feel that such a thing is available to those much more on the bleeding edge of coolness than I shall ever be. Perhaps those who live in cities like London and Tokyo, and who frequent high quality denim bars.

So, in my exhaustive (ing) search online, in desperation I typed in "custom jeans." I found this.   I live in fear that this new discovery will somehow disappear, and that I will be relegated to chasing my dream again. I suffer from a sort of desperate desire to order enough pairs to last my lifetime.

My new favorite jeans.

My first pair of custom jeans was based on measurements cobbled together by repeatedly pulling on my favorite ripped jeans and measuring, and laying them out, and measuring again. They are a thing of beauty. They are a lightweight 10 oz denim, very soft, and deep dyed: the least expensive (They start at $40) jeans on makeyourownjeans.com (click Custom Jeans - FIX measurements.) The sit low on my waist, and fall just short of hitting the floor when I wear flat shoes. I wear them constantly.

When I had worn and washed my first pair enough to have a good grasp on the fit, I ordered my second pair. They are an inch smaller in the waist, as the waist band tends to stretch with wear, and an inch or so longer in length for wearing with heels. The fit is great. I wasn't happy with the wash ( I think that I chose the light blue scrape wash) it arrived a very 90's sort of sky blue.



 I panicked for a few minutes and then over dyed them using this tutorial with this result. Much more acceptable.


Until I master the cosmopolitan and/or cash factor required for secret label japanese denim, I will revel in my own perfect-for-me denim, and work my way up to a custom classic trench coat.